TL;DR summary:
My culiary highlights
- Montepulciano area: Fattoria San Martino, Campa Cavallo Lab
- Montalcino area: Maccari Pura Crocus
- Between Florence and Montepulciano: Cucina Donnaluisa im Il Verreno
- On the way there/back: Chapter Two (Vaduz), Gelato bei Delizie Bolognesi (Bologna)
Recommendations from previous Italy trips:
- Bologna area: Locanda Pincelli
- Ravenna area: Clarice Ristorante, Favilla Ristorante
- Massa area: Tre Terazze
- In Pisa: Chilometro Toscano (Danke an Julian für den Tipp 🙂)
>>You can also find all these recommendations on my Culinary Map.<<
Now for my detailed travel report:
For the third time already, we traveled Tuscany this year. Once again, it was a mix of workation and vacation. Because even the most annoying workday feels a lot less painful when good Italian food and a glass of wine are waiting at the end of it.
In previous years, we spent our workation time further north – once on the west coast in Massa and once on the east coast in Ravenna. This time, we went straight to Tuscany. In Montepulciano, we rented an apartment just a short walk from the old town, offering everything you need for a workation: good internet, parking, and supermarkets, bakeries, and great restaurants just around the corner.
Trip & first stop: Bologna
As in previous years, we drove to Italy over the Easter weekend with an overnight stop along the way. On the second day of our journey, we made a short stop in Bologna. Despite the limited time, the foodie in me was more than satisfied. On our way to the old town, we randomly discovered a fantastic gelateria – which, as it turned out, has won several awards. “Delizie Bolognesi” offered many exciting flavors. I chose Santiago and Nettuno. My personal highlight was the pistachio brittle, which was freshly added. Overall, probably the best gelato we’ve had in Italy so far.
Afterwards, we walked to Piazza Maggiore and from there, again by chance, wandered through Via Pescherie Vecchie. A small alley entirely dedicated to great food. Small bottegas spill out into the streets, where you can taste your way through Italian specialties or simply enjoy a drink while watching the lively atmosphere. There are also numerous shops and market stalls offering everything from cheese and cured meats to pasta, fruit, and vegetables. A small paradise for food lovers.
Arrival in Montepulciano
After that, we continued on to Montepulciano and ended the day next door to our apartment at BBQ Chianina Station with wine and pasta. The restaurant seems to be a small local chain, offering good quality at fair prices.
Since we had already set off on Good Friday, we had Easter Sunday and Monday to explore the area.
Thermal springs & Pienza
On Sunday, we took a trip to Bagni San Filippo – one of Tuscany’s natural thermal spring locations. At the source, the water is about 50°C, but where we bathed it was probably closer to 25°C. Still warm enough for a sunny April day. Afterwards, we stopped at Morsi & Sorsi for a drink and some gelato. I can’t comment on the food, but it’s highly recommended for a short break off the beaten path.
Then we headed to Pienza, one of my favorite small towns in Tuscany. A beautiful old town with small alleys and charming shops selling local specialties.
Easter dinner in Montepulciano
In the evening, we went to Ristorante Poggiardelli, about 10 minutes outside Montepulciano. A small, charming restaurant that is part of an agriturismo. To be certified as an agriturismo, these places must meet strict requirements. Among other things, all products offered – including drinks – must come from Tuscany. It’s a great concept that ensures local products and short supply chains while supporting local businesses.
From the Easter menu, we shared an antipasto platter and ravioli with burrata, tomatoes, arugula, and Grana Padano. For the main course, I had grilled lamb with fried artichokes, and for dessert, strawberries with lemon. Simple, but a perfect and light finish.
The next day, we strolled through the old town of Montepulciano and had dinner at Le Logge del Vingola. In addition to the à la carte menu, you can choose a three- or four-course tasting menu. For two people, this means different dishes and wine pairings. You can also specify preferences or allergies.
Unfortunately, the amuse-bouche and the first course (a fish mousse that was partially frozen) didn’t quite convince me. However, the primi course was unusual and exciting – risotto with black lemon.
The main courses were good, but not outstanding. I had salmon trout wrapped in nori with curry beurre blanc and carrot. The dessert was okay, but nothing more. The fruit “chip” was unfortunately quite chewy and stuck to the teeth. Overall, a decent meal, but not great value for money.
Workation days & wine tasting
The next day, we eased into our “workation routine.” One evening after work, we visited Vineria di Montepulciano for a wine tasting with an antipasti platter. Overall, good value for money, though I would have preferred the ham sliced thinly instead of cubed, as some pieces were hard to chew. The wines were good, but not particularly memorable.
Taverna di Fucile – a perfect start to our vacation
On Friday evening, we kicked off the “real” vacation with dinner at Taverna di Fucile (Agriturismo), just a few minutes from the old town. We were warmly welcomed with a glass of their house white wine. We shared pici with white ragù and then had a bistecca alla fiorentina. You could choose between 1.0 and 1.5 kg – we opted for the smaller one. Both the pasta and the steak were outstanding. As sides, we had a mixed salad, caramelized onions, and baked mashed potatoes with olive oil and herbs (incredibly delicious!). For dessert, I rodered ricotta with honey and Vin Santo. The tip from the kitchen: pour the Vin Santo over the ricotta and honey and mix – delicious.
Weekend in the Chianti region
On Saturday, I headed to Agriturismo Il Verreno, beautifully located halfway between Montepulciano and Florence. In addition to various leisure activities, it also features the restaurant Cucina Donnaluisa, offering both à la carte and two tasting menus. I chose the “Roots” menu, focusing on local ingredients.
I started with an aperitif – a spritz with homemade bay leaf liqueur. Bright green and very tasty! This was followed by a trio of amuse-bouches, then fresh warm bread with house-made olive oil.
The courses were served at a pleasant pace. My highlights were the artichoke panciotti and the risotto, though all courses were well-balanced and convincing. However, from the risotto onward, I noticed that the portions were sligthtly too large for a tasting menu. Halfway through, I was already getting full and unfortunately had to leave some on the plate.
As a digestif, I had the pure version of the bay leaf liqueur – also very good, but also quite strong.
The next morning, I booked a yoga session through the reception and then enjoyed breakfast on the terrace. The selection was fantastic – everything you could wish for. Overall, I can highly recommend this place.
The next day, we returned to Montepulciano for a short hike and a wine tasting at Vecchia Cantina. A good tasting and a nice cellar, but none of the wines really stood out.
Fattoria San Martino – vegetarian highlight
In the evening, we walked to Fattoria San Martino, a small agriturismo just outside Montepulciano. From our accommodation, it was about a 15-minute walk. The menu here changes daily and is always vegetarian, with vegan options available.
Before anyone skips ahead: even my meat-loving husband was convinced by the very first course. The potato flan with leeks sounds simple but was a true explosion of flavor. It’s impressive how much can be achieved with such simple ingredients.
The second course was flourless gnocchi, giving them a fluffy texture reminiscent of small potato dumplings. Then came soy-based strips that, both in texture and taste, didn’t feel like a meat substitute at all. I actually prefer this version, as you don’t risk getting a chewy piece of meat.
For dessert, we got panna cotta with chocolate cream. A thoroughly successful menu at a fair price (€50). Highly recommended.
The next day was a bit rainy, so we used the opportunity for more wine tastings. Our highlight was the tasting at the Poliziano winery, where both the guidance throughout the tasting and the wines themselves were truly excellent. It was one of the few tastings where we genuinely enjoyed every single wine.
Campa Cavallo – a local hidden gem
In the evening, we headed to Campa Cavallo Lab, located just outside the old town of Montepulciano and close to our apartment. As it turned out, this place is only open during the winter season and mainly caters to locals. In summer, the restaurant closes as the team focuses on event catering. Our neighbors at the long counter – regulars – told us we were the first tourists they had ever seen there.
After taking our seats at the counter, we were served wild garlic popcorn while watching the kitchen in action. Shortly after, a colorful selection of antipasti arrived. Alongside the usual cured meats and cheeses, there were also two itslian meatballs and some mixed pickles.
Next came a modern interpretation of the Italian dish seppie con piselli – a stew with squid and peas. Then followed my personal favorite: risotto with gorgonzola and fried artichokes, with the cheese adding just the right level of richness.
For the meat course, we had diaframma, known in Germany as skirt steak or onglet, a very popular cut of meat in Italy. Our neighbors were especially excited about the dessert: as regulars, they had suggested it multiple times – and that evening, their wish had finally been granted.
We had a wonderful and sociable evening at the counter. Once again, the €50 menu price felt more than fair. An absolute recommendation – though unfortunately only during the winter season (until mid-April).
Montalcino & Brunello
This was already our last evening in Montepulciano. The next day, we continued on to Montalcino, staying at Capanna Suites Agriturismo. We had booked a beautiful, spacious double room for three nights. The booking included one hour of exclusive use of the spa area. Since it was a very rainy day, we spent the afternoon relaxing in the sauna and whirlpool.
For dinner, we went into the old town of Montalcino to Il Moro, a rustic restaurant with fair prices and local dishes. As is typical in Italy, we were first served bread and excellent local olive oil. Alongside bruschetta as a starter, I ordered pici (called pinci in Montalcino) all’aglione. This is a typical local dish made with Aglione della Valdichiana, a special type of garlic that is larger, milder, and more nutty, without leaving the usual garlic aftertaste. For dessert, we had Vin Santo with cantucci, traditionally dipped into the wine – definitely worth trying!
The next day, we followed a recommendation from our Campa Cavallo seat neighbors and went for a wine tasting at the Fortezza in Montalcino’s old town. Various tastings are offered; for Brunello (the wine the region is famous for), you can choose between three or five wines and between “standard” and “top” selections. We opted for five standard and five top Brunellos – ten wines in total.
The tasting came with a small plate of different pecorino cheeses and breadsticks. Toward the end, the server asked which wines we liked best and then brought each of us an additional recommendation. In both cases, the choices matched our tastes perfectly.
In the evening, we went to Maccari – Pura Crocus, an agriturismo restaurant just outside Montalcino, somewhat hidden and not easily reachable on foot. We received a warm welcome with a glass of house rosé, homemade bread (including saffron brioche), and olive oil.
Alongside two glasses of red wine, we ordered roasted pumpkin with parmesan cream and 22-month-aged ham with mixed pickles as starters – both excellent, with vegetables grown on-site. The two pasta courses were also perfectly executed.
Throughout the meal, the host regularly came by with additional wine recommendations to pair with each course – unsolicited and not charged. Italian hospitality at its finest!
Between courses, we asked about the saffron harvest, and the host proudly showed us a jar filled with their collected saffron. An impressive sight- we calculated that a full jar would be worth around €10,000 based on the price per gram.
The meat courses and dessert were equally convincing as the rest of the menu. Afterwards, we browsed their shop and purchased 1g of saffron, a bottle of Brunello, olive oil, and a jar of Aglione della Valdichiana sauce. Once again, the price-performance ratio was excellent – around €65 per person for four courses and wine pairings (not even fully charged).
Roadtrip: Monte Argentario
The next day, we took a short road trip (about 1.5 hours) to the Monte Argentario peninsula. We stopped in Porto Santo Stefano for a stroll along the promenade and enjoyed a gelato in the sun.
The peninsula is quite mountainous, and Porto Santo Stefano stretches up the hills in colorful pastel tones.
While walking along the promenade, we passed Trattoria Il Moletto. We didn’t eat there, but based on the atmosphere and online reviews, it seems like a lovely spot for a drink or meal right by the sea.
A tip if you plan to visit Monte Argentario: don’t try to drive all the way around the peninsula. About halfway, we had to turn back because the road became impassable (at least without risking damage to the car).
So we returned to Porto Santo Stefano and drove to Porto Ercole from the other side. Compared to the former, it’s a much quieter village. While there are fewer shops, I personally found it more charming and relaxing.
Before heading back, we made a stop at a free beach (spiaggia libera). In Italy, many beaches are privately managed as lidi or bagni, with restaurants and sunbeds (for a fee). If you prefer not to pay, look for these free sections. Ours was reached via a small, inconspicuous path through the bushes. The walk was longer than expected, but it led to a long, beautiful stretch of untouched beach.
Final evening in Italy: Il Passaggio by Capanna
After returning, it was time for our last dinner in Italy at Il Passagio by Capanna, the restaurant of our accommodation. The glass terrace offers a stunning view over the landscape toward the sunset.
To wrap up the trip, we chose the tasting menu, newly created for the season. Once again, everything came from Tuscany, much of it from their own garden. Our waiter seemed genuinely delighted that we opted for the tasting menu with wine pairing and passionately explained each course and wine.
The dishes were thoughtfully composed and well-balanced in flavor. Visually and taste-wise, the artichoke dish was my highlight of the evening – paired with chimichurri and almond cream, it was simply outstanding. The ribollita was also perfectly executed, with some vegetables cooked separately to achieve ideal textures.
The later courses were rich in umami, with sauces clearly prepared with great care and time. Toward the end, however, I once again felt that the portions were slightly too large or heavy. By the time the final main course (pigeon) arrived, I was already quite full – even though I had held back on the bread. Still, that’s criticism at a very high level.
For dessert, we had a soufflé with strawberries and sheep’s milk ice cream. Afterwards, we took a short walk around the property – bringing our last evening in Italy to a peaceful close.
Return journey & finale in Vaduz
On the way back, we made a short stop in Milan, visited the cathedral, and experienced a bit of culture shock from the crowds after the peaceful Tuscan countryside. Afterwards, we stopped at Piz for pizza – something we somehow hadn’t had enough of during the trip. You can only choose between “with meat” or “without meat,” the rest is a surprise. Ours turned out to be a delicious combination with salami and chili threads.
We then continued to Austria for an overnight stay at Boutiquehotel Bergvilla, where we spent two nights to break up the journey. The day in between was filled with hiking, relaxing by the pool, sauna, and reading in the sun.
In the evening, we made a detour to Liechtenstein, where we had a reservation at Chapter Two. It’s more expensive than Italy, but the chef, Martin Weber, has earned one and even two Michelin stars in his previous positions – and you can taste that.
Right from the amuse-bouche – a tuna tataki full of umami and carefully chosen textures – expectations were set high. The kingfish and salmon ceviche that followed were equally delicious.
My only minor criticism concerns the structure of the menu and portion sizes. In addition to the tasting menu, dishes are divided into categories “First Bites,” “Chapter One,” “Chapter Two,” “Chapter Three,” and “Epilogue.” It feels like you’re meant to build your own menu, but the dishes in “Chapter Three” are full-sized main courses. I would appreciate the option to order smaller portions. That said, this is again criticism on a very high level and does not affect the quality or taste – also both the slow-cooked egg and the trout were perfectly balanced dishes.
Overall, it was a fantastic culinary finale to our trip.
Final thoughts
Tuscany remains one of the most diverse culinary regions in Europe for me. From simple, perfectly executed dishes to creative fine dining, everything was there. And the landscape is just as beautiful – the perfect place to truly unwind.
One thing is already certain: we’ll be back. Planning for next year is already underway.
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