Cooking on the bright side of life

The time is finally here. I’ve been looking forward to this for months: a month-long Sabbatical. But rather than just travelling, I’ve chosen to attend Culinary School for 4 weeks, earning a Certificate in Culinary Arts from the renowned Ashburton Chefs Academy.

On a (very) hot Sunday, I make my way to the airport to travel to Ashburton in England, a small town just south of Dartmoor National Park and about an hour away from Cornwall.

After around twelve hours of travel, including a long layover in Amsterdam and two different buses, I am lucky that my Airbnb host had offered to pick me up about 15 minutes outside of Ashburton, as some bus lines don’t run on Sundays.

Once in Ashburton, I still have about two hours to settle into my one-room apartment in the town centre and quickly pick up a few things from the supermarket around the corner before it’s time to go to bed.

The next morning, I set off on the 15-minute walk to the cooking school. Once there, I meet some of my nine fellow students for the next four weeks. We take our assigned seats and are welcomed by Chef David. Throughout the morning, we are introduced to the schedule and rules of the course. After a short lunch, we head straight into the kitchen.

On this first afternoon, Chef David shows us various knife cuts and at the same time assesses our knife skills. The chopped vegetables also serve as preparation for the next cooking day. We also learn the key kitchen workflows and how and where to store dirty and clean dishes. Constant cleaning of the workspace is strongly emphasised: “If you have time to lean, you have time to clean.”

After this thorough introduction, we are released a little early, around 3:30 p.m., with the note that we must bring our own lunch the next day. With a wink, Chef David adds that we will be secretly judged if we bring convenience food.

Full of energy from the unusually early finish and the pleasantly cool air (from 39°C in Germany to 20°C in England), I decide to go for a run and explore the surroundings a bit. After a 5-km loop around the northern part of the town, I am still full of energy and decide to check out the nearby yoga studio. So I book the 6 p.m. Total Body Flow class and use the time beforehand for a quick shower and to buy groceries.

In the yoga class, I quickly realise that this is a different level compared to my studios at home. I can keep up fairly well, but I start wondering whether going on a run and then dping yoga was really such a good idea.

From the third day onwards, we are in the kitchen until the end of the course. After a short introduction to stocks, we begin working in pairs to prepare a chocolate mousse. The key elements are the correct preparation of the sabayon over a bain-marie and whipping the cream to the right consistency. This gives my arms their first workout of the day, as everything is whisked by hand. It helps us learn the correct consistency for the cream.

The mousse-filled glasses are then placed in the fridge, and we prepare decorations from melted chocolate. As soon as we are done, we move on to bread dough and the second arm workout of the day. We mix the ingredients for a white loaf and knead the dough by hand for about 10 minutes until the gluten structure has developed and the dough becomes smooth and no longer sticky.

Thanks to my experience with bread baking, I end up with a nice, even ball of dough, and at the end of the bulk fermentation (first proofing), small air bubbles are already visible at the edges.

While the yeast does its work, we move on to the next dish: hake fillet with pea and mint risotto. Chef Robert explains the key steps for risotto preparation, as well as the best types of rice. Most people know Arborio rice, but he recommends Carnaroli rice, which has a higher starch content and is therefore even better suited for risotto.

With this knowledge, we head to our stations. The most important part is to stir continuously and not add too much liquid at once. And to catch the moment when the rice is al dente and ready for the remaining ingredients. While the fish fillet cooks in the oven for 10 minutes, we finish the risotto with pea purée, peas, mint, and crème fraîche, and season with lemon, salt, and pepper.

Before we are allowed to eat, Chef Robert comes around to taste. My verdict: good, but it needs a pinch more salt. We quickly tidy our stations before enjoying a short lunch break.

As soon as we finish the risotto and chocolate mousse, we continue. We quickly restock all stations and return to our bread dough, which we shape and place into small loaf tins for the second proofing.

Next is shortcrust pastry. Chef Robert explains the correct techniques and then lets us work on our own. We gently mix the dough without letting it get too warm, form it into two balls, flatten them slightly, and wrap them in cling film before placing them in the fridge for the next day.

Then it’s time to put the bread into the oven. Shortly afterwards, a beautifully risen white loaf comes out. Each loaf must be photographed together with our name tag and assigned number. Every day, we must submit photos and a self-evaluation of certain dishes. The white loaf is the first of these.

At the end of the day, a minestrone is on our schedule. After an introduction, we prepare the base for our own minestrone, with additional explanations and instructions for Parmesan croutons. Chef Robert tastes our soups at the end. He is slightly disappointed with most of them, as we have not reduced the soup enough, so it’s less intense than his version. We are allowed to pack up the minestrone and croutons for dinner. The day ends, of course, with cleaning the kitchen before we are released.

That evening, I attend another yoga class, this time Ashtanga. I quickly realise that this requires a more advanced level than I have reached, even after several years of yoga experience. I am deeply impressed by the instructor’s strength and flexibility. There are moments when I cannot even understand how she got into those positions. Well – Ashtanga will probably not become my regular class in Ashburton.

The next day begins with a demonstration of how to butcher a whole chicken. Afterwards, everyone receives their own chicken and a knife. It goes quite well overall, and I end up with hardly more waste than demonstrated. Only in a few places did I cut 1–2 mm into the meat where I shouldn’t have.

The chicken legs are immediately marinated, one breast with skin is refrigerated for later in the week, and the other is frozen for week four. Almost everything else goes into a large pot for chicken stock to minimise waste.

After thoroughly cleaning our stations and hands, we move on to bread again – this time a walnut and raisin loaf. Once again, we knead the dough by hand for about 10 minutes. My arms are already starting to feel it, likely from the previous day and the yoga classes. In the end, I again produce a nice dough ball for bulk fermentation.

Lunch consists of four components, so there is a lot to do. We boil potatoes, blanch green vegetables, and prepare a sweetcorn and chorizo sauce. Then the chicken breast is seasoned, seared in a cast-iron pan, and finished in the oven. It then rests for about 10 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute.

Meanwhile, potatoes are fried in clarified butter, vegetables are glazed, and the sauce is finished. Once again, we clean our stations before eating. I am pleased to find that I have cooked the chicken perfectly and achieved a juicy result.

As soon as the plates are empty, the break is over. We quickly reset our stations and move on to shaping bread again – this time without a tin – into a baguette-style shape.

While the bread proofs, we take the shortcrust pastry from the fridge, roll it out, and line two tart tins. We cover them with baking paper and ceramic baking beans to prevent the dough from rising too much. After about 25 minutes, beautifully golden tart shells come out of the oven.

Thanks to the oven heat, the bread proofs quickly, and we can egg-wash the loaves and bake them shortly afterwards.

The final dish of the day is a cauliflower and bacon soup. After preparing crispy bacon, we sauté onions and cauliflower, then cook them in milk and chicken stock. We blend everything into a smooth soup and finish it with cream, extra stock, salt, and white pepper. Once again, Chef Robert notes: it’s missing a pinch of salt, but good consistency and pepper balance.

On the way home, I clearly notice in my legs and knees that I usually work at a desk. Still, I manage a walk/run along the southern edge of Dartmoor National Park in the evening.

And suddenly it ‘s Friday, and the first quarter of the course is almost over. As every morning, we meet in the classroom, put on our kitchen uniforms, go through the recipes, and wait for the briefing with Chef Robert.

We start by making curry oil and confiting the chicken legs from the previous day. While the chicken gently simmers, Chef Robert shows us how to poach eggs properly. I have struggled with this at home before and am glad to finally learn it properly. The key: very fresh eggs and more vinegar than I used to think (about 100 ml).

After the demonstration, we try it ourselves. Nervously, I create a whirlpool in the barely simmering water and slide the egg in directly from the shell. After about 2–3 minutes, we start checking the consistency of the eggs. By the third time, the egg feels right: soft but not too runny. I place the eggs in cold water for later.

Next, we prepare Welsh rarebit. Not being that familiar with the British kitchen, I had to look up what it is. It’s a sauce based on butter, flour, and beer, enriched with cheddar, mustard, and Worcestershire sauce. This thick mixture is spread on our toasted walnut-raisin bread and grilled in the oven. Meanwhile, we reheat the poached eggs and serve them on the bread with curry oil and fried shallots on top. I sit down for lunch and proudly realise that my eggs are perfectly runny inside.

For the first time this week, I manage to have a proper cup of tea during the lunch break – though I end up drinking it in three slightly too hot gulps on the way back to the kitchen.

For the next dish, we use the tart shells from the day before. We carefully shave the excess pastry from the edges, sauté leeks, and mix eggs, milk, and cream. We fill the tart shells with leek, smoked salmon, and dill, then pour over the custard mixture. After about 15 minutes, I take two golden quiches out of the oven.

Next, we prepare pickled vegetables for the following week and then turn to the confit chicken legs. Together with shallots, garlic, pistachios, and dried fruits, we mix them into a filling for a chicken terrine. We spread this over slices of Parma ham and roll it tightly in cling film. With a little help from Chef Robert, I manage to create a properly tight roll. Now we wait until Monday for the result.

The final dish of the week is a mussel chowder with sweet potato and roasted peppers. We learn how to prepare mussels and how to identify those that should not be used. Mussels that are open in their raw state should be tapped; if they close, they are fine. Mussels that do not open after cooking should not be eaten.
We steam the mussels in white wine while preparing the soup base. After sautéing onion, garlic, and sweet potato, we add mussel stock and cream and cook it down. Finally, we add roasted peppers, mussels, and herbs and adjust the seasoning. This time, Chef Robert is finally satisfied and praises the flavour and consistency of the chowder. Before we leave, there is a thorough kitchen clean-up, which we complete quickly together.

To end the day, I choose a 9 km hiking route and head into nature. Right at the beginning, a large herd of cows blocks my path. Shortly after, I encounter a group of sheep. I am still getting used to the fact that you really walk through grazing land here, but the small makeshift ladders to enter and exit show that this is indeed intended.
Back home, I fall into bed and am glad I can turn off my alarm for the next morning.

In the afternoon, I plan a hike to Buckfast Abbey and a nice restaurant for dinner. A 5 km walk certainly won’t stop me from good food.

At Buckfast Abbey, I unexpectedly catch a choir rehearsal for an evening concert. The sound fills the church and creates a wonderful atmosphere.

Shortly afterwards, I continue to Buckfastleigh, where I am disappointed to find that I missed the opening hours of an otter sanctuary. Maybe I will manage to come back.

A few streets further, I arrive at my destination: the restaurant “The Doe”. I have booked an early table to allow enough time for my one-hour walk home afterwards.

I start with the day’s drink special: a white sangria. The restaurant has a sharing-plate concept, and I am recommended two dishes per person. I choose roasted beetroot with apple, lentils, garlic crème fraîche and herb oil, and the beef kofta with harissa yoghurt, fried capers, pickled onions and flatbread.

Both dishes are delicious, but the highlight is the sweet-sour-creamy combination of the roasted beetroot. For dessert, I order a small glass of Portuguese port wine before heading home.

Now it’s time to slown down a bit to be wellrested for the second week of the course starting tomorrow.